This is, what the famous coat is all about. It's a design for my winter project in fashion school and I picked an Edwardian Walking Dress from 1900 as reference but modernized its layout a bit.
A Walking Dress, 1900
Black loden and Edging
Fashion Collection Museum Vienna
The strict layout and the use of heavyweight wool affected the change from "Trotteur" into the term "the walking dress" at the beginning of the 20th Century. It started being imported from England in 1887 as the famous "Tailormade" and pleased itself with increasing popularity. This forerunner of our "Tailormade Costume" was meant only for walks outside in the morning, of course with a proper blouse underneath.
Das Trotteur in strenger Linienführung und aus festen Wollstoffen gearbeitet wurde Ende des 19. Jahrhunderts zur gebräuchlichen Bezeichnung des englischen Schneiderkostüms. 1887 als Tailormade aus England importiert, erfreute es sich zunehmender Beliebtheit. Dieser Vorläufer unseres Kostüms war nur für Gänge außer Haus am Vormittag gedacht, mit korrekter Hemdbluse darunter.
The Illustration is light-grey, but the Coat will be made in navy-herringbone with black felt edging. The original is made of black Loden and black Edging. It's mentioned in the catalogue "A great Entry - Fashion at the Ring Boulevard", which is an amazing book of the correspondent exhibition back in 2009. I think I'll make a post about a few books in the holidays (nope, we're not in the holiday-season here, yet)
This is the muslin which was finished on Thursday. I'm cutting out the pattern now, which is quite a mess. The next posts will explain why. See you soon!