Freitag, 26. Februar 2010

Corsetomania I - French Corset

So, after all, here's the first one.
That piece was drafted by me, the pattern is historical but has been renewed and optimized in it's correct fit quite a few times. Nevertheless, it has managed to stay quite "original" and is common for theaters or movies to use it for costumes. I drafted it with my actual measurements and reduced the waistline about 6 cm and there was no need to define more. When I wear it, theres a gap in the back with about 4-5 cm, because I actually don't want the fastening to touch neatly. I plan to lose weight, so maybe later the gap will get smaller. The main reason is to be flexible with weight without ruining the form or not being able to wear it anymore.  

Materials used:  
Shantung Silk (1x) and Interfacing, 
Muslin (2x - fine quality, 2x rough quality), 
Erbelin (1x), 
Wadding (1x)  
equals 8 layers to sew though! 

Drafted pattern already cut out and with marked positions where to put in the spring steel bones. Thats how the criss-cross looks like... on every piece! (I had to do 14 ...) I used 6 layers for this "lining". Muslin fine 2x, Muslin rough 2x, Canvas 1x, Erbelin 1x (is a thick and stiff cotton quality, treated or untreated) Sewing in the ribbons for spring steel bones. On this pattern (which is the third when you look from the front) I used two, to push the breasts to the front. Tucking: So here you are. Ribbons are ready, now you have to layer the fabrics. Criss-Cross thing, Wadding and Silk. It has to be tucked this way, just like you would simulate the form of the waist. If done well, later on you will see no crincles or gatherings when the corset is laced. Here you can see the Inside. A spring steel bone is hiding behind that white ribbon, ending 1cm above the waist. If it would end lower, your waist would have a sharp angle or no characteristics at all. In addition, it would be very uncomfortable.
The front straight busk. (35cm)
That part was pretty difficult to put in, because of the massive thickness of these 8 layers.
Many many things hand-sewn.
Lacing from the Inside.

And Outside. For an optimal straight line i put a spriral bone in the back, aka in front of the eyelets to give stability.
Upper lace.
Inside this ribbons made out of the same material are spiral bones cut to the ideal lenght of 1 cm less than measured lenght.
Front View
Back View
This crinkles are due to the fact there is no tension on this dummy. It's quite loose fitting because it has no body that can give in to the pressure. ;) By wearing and lacing tight this crinkles will simply fade away if your tucking (see 4th from above) was correct. The uneven distribution you might come across by seeing this corset on a dummy is, because the dummy's proportions are perfect, and mine are not. ;) Like I mentioned, it's fitted for my actual measurements. This thing had cost me 104 hours to do it. This criss-cross sewing already requires about 12h and the tucking even 25h. I need to find a material, that gives the same strength but needs other effort. It's really thick like armour, the reason for decrease my waist around 11 cm. Information and Questions welcome. :)