La Guêpière.

wonderful photography

2011-11-08T12:21:00.001+01:00

//////

tarnovskys polaroids,

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what the hell... carpets?

2011-10-19T12:51:00.000+02:00

ok. there are carpets, and carpets.
but to make a fashion-trend about it... which I observed for quite a while now in the web. well. it depends.
these shoes for example are remarkably striking. and even if you don't like the carpet, there's still something about those shoes.
I wonder how a woman would look in a carpet-suit. i think we'll have the pleasure of seeing that soon somewhere, i suppose.

there's something different about the RTW spring collection 2012 by maison martin margiela. i prefer my carpet to stay under my feet and in some cases this collection has managed to do so, too.

all via

Tutorial: How to customize your dress form - Part one

2011-10-12T16:45:00.002+02:00

Today I want to show you a little tutorial on how I fattened up my dress form, since I fattened up myself.
This tutorial will be split up in Bust, Lower Part, Upper Part, roughly.

Changing the size of your dress form to your own measurements isn't that hard actually. First of all you have to take exact measurements and observe your body critically. This means to position yourself in front of a mirror and to determine whether your body has unbalanced proportions or irregularities.

It is necessary to analyze your body, when you want to have clothes that fit. This has nothing to do with the contemporary "standards" of the fashion industry.
Therefore - nothing to be too sad about if your eye spots something you don't want to see. :)

To give you a glimpse of where we stand and where we are going, here is a before and after shot of the dress form. It took me about 6 hours if I remember correctly, measuring not included.

This dress form is now two sizes bigger than it was before.

What you will need:

Tools like scissors, measuring tape, needles...
a voluminous non-woven fabric/wadding like "Vilene". I can't say how much I've used because I didn't check. but I don't think you will need more than 1,5m/1,6yards.
a shirt you don't want to wear anymore.

Part One: BUST

1. If you have your shirt you probably want to make it smaller to reach a good fit on the dress-form. While making it smaller simply extend your side-seam until you reach your shoulder.
Ignore that bump I made there. Such bumps won't be seen anyway. If your shirt has a thick neckband you can simply cut it off. But try keeping the neckline a little smaller than shown here.

2. Roughly sketch a cup-like pattern on the fabric, like you know it from a bikini or bra. The two sides can differ in form, for maybe your breasts do too.

3. First pin and check position, then sew with big stitches.

4. Take the wadding and pull it apart to make it more voluminous and fill your cups.

5. Take a square and pin it on your form to define the bust. You can see the edge which is created naturally and will later will be your upper part of the cup.

6. If there's fabric overlapping the seam-line you're about to create, simply cut it off.

7. Turn the form facing it sideways and draw a curved line from needle to needle.

8. Remember to match the upper and lower parts, otherwise one will be too short!

9. Repeat these steps for the other breast.

10. Sew the two parts together to get a cup, then sew it onto the shirt.

11. Before you fix the cup onto the shirt completely fill it with more wadding. Do it on both sides simultaneously because now is the time to check the measurements!
The cover will fit tightly on your form and maybe in the end your dress form turns out smaller than your own measurements.
(If you want to replicate your measurements exactly you should stuff to make it tight. I deliberately left it loose, to make the form a wee bit smaller than my actual size. You're never wrong with that, if it's not more than ~1,5cm)

12. Close it but leave a small gap to be able to adjust the bust size later on. This is important, because maybe you're not happy with the result, when the form is nearly finished, or you want to check the measurements later on.

13. Now your boobies may or may not look that monstrous but since the form is not finished, this is only a weird impression. Simply try ignore it, even if it looks ridiculous. ;)

14. Now we have to fill the space between the breasts, to get a nice smooth lower bustline.

15. This is what it will look like later on.

Maybe you will notice, that in some pictures the cups aren't stitched onto the shirt yet. That's because I wanted to check the whole look in in pinned position first and stitch it simultaneously afterwards. The process stays the same.

Thanks and see you at part II.

fall fashion

2011-10-05T10:30:00.001+02:00

from Mariona Gen

love.those.booooooooots

<3______<3

fall.. (and birds)... (and other stuff)

2011-10-05T09:27:00.001+02:00

Ich LIEBE Herbst.

Hier ein bisschen inspirationals..

oh, auch wenn noch ein wenig sommerlich, hier ein wunderschönes heim:

oh, and check these:

via

Changes / Chances

2011-10-03T11:33:00.002+02:00

Soon, and definitely in the next year, there will be changes and chances.

While they happen, please check my photo blog for updates.

my photo blog

And stay tuned here as well!

Greetings,
mae/liv

Colette Patterns Spring Palette Challenge

2011-01-22T10:50:00.000+01:00

Colette has started her spring color palette challenge and I'm so eager to join in!
Heres the color palette I've come up with, fitting to my autumnish skin type.

Each of the upper colors will/can be combined in a garment with the color beneath it.
I still don't know if I will stay put with this, it kind of seems so hollow to me.
In addition, I don't know for sure if my skintype really matches the autumn type, but thats the opinions I've got from others, I would count myself rather as a summer-type, but on the other, rather convincing side cold colors don't suit me.

Maybe this palette would be better?

Yeah, I think, this looks more spring-ish, somehow.
cheers, mae

Nuit N°12

2011-01-21T07:39:00.000+01:00

Stumbled upon great treasuries by Ludivine Machinet and Frédéric Baldo.

Goth and catacomb themes have been prevalent in the fashion industry for a while now. One such emerging brand that creates an entire line of accessories around the dark and lovely is, Nuit N°12. Clicking through their collection is like a visual poem, which indulges in the darker side of art and history.

Machinet and Baldo have created a narrative wholly their own, with the mixing of bronze, silver, grey platinum, and pink gold jewelry. Add wood and metal motifs to leather clutches, and you don't need much else to make a heart flutter with excitement.

Visit Nuit N°12

Fashion Icons and young fashion labels

2011-01-09T18:22:00.001+01:00

If you speak german, this might be of interest to you:
I wrote a biography about Coco Chanel with selected pictures, in one of my other blogs which I run with my fellow class mates. There are posts about fashion and music too, if your interested.
Herbststraße - weekly

There will be a short bio about 24 icones of fashion every saturday in particular order. Every sunday I will introduce 3 fashion labels that are rather unknown or young, alphabetically.You can take a look at the list here.

If you'd like to at least take a look at the pictures, you're welcome.

cheers, mae

Sculptural for 2011

2011-01-08T18:31:00.001+01:00

Resulutions 2011 - Edit:
This collection actually makes me toss my thought about wearing more colors!
And I should have added to my resolutions, that I actually HAVE to try to make something sculptural, that almost covers your whole head. And drape... and make something convertible. Take a look:

Alessandra Marchi. A lovely mix of hard and soft fabrics, from her F/W 2010/11 collection.
It's amazing how every piece drapes the model's body.. like it would say "wear me or wear nothing".
I'm so fond of her collection, if you're interested in more, check it out here.

An example for something convertible. This picture shows how to wear the DKNY Cosy.

Similar to American Apparel's Le Sac Dress is Please Dress Up. Their summer collection from 2009 was called infinate possibilities, and is just that.

Another awesomeness: Complex Geometries
They also make quite a lot of convertible clothing, and what I like most about is, that it's quite avant-garde. Like this sheet t. Veeery awesome.

I'm too short for their apparel, so what. But I think she would look great in it.

And last but definitely not least: Harpuns Own. Damn, I want this 3-hole-blazer. And they also have a 3-hole-dress!

The 3 HOLE BLAZER is tailored with a high fitting slim arm and double back neck vents. The third hole allows it to be worn many different ways.

Also by Harpuns Own, the Swacket.

I think this will influence the things I will create this year pretty badly.

I'm a tailor, so I pretty much have no knowledge or grasp when it comes to draping.

This year I will push myself to get some garments done, which reach deeper into the subject than the "simple" pattern drafting.

One of my big goals is to make a subtraction dress from Julian Roberts. I think he's my temporary idol for the upcoming year.

xxx, mae

Do's and don'ts for 2011

2011-01-08T13:41:00.002+01:00

As 2010 was a disastrous year for me, I very much trust 2011 to be better. I didn't have much influence on some things that happened, but one improvement for sure can be made by me: a schedule.

And last but not least, but a very important one for me personally: wear more color.
I mostly run around in black, but I don't feel like that lately..
Most of the time I feel awkward in colors, but maybe that will pass.

These resolutions are in no particular order.
xxx, mae

Dog-Lover-Seamstresses - Where are you?

2011-01-06T11:52:00.000+01:00

Am I the only one wondering?
Every (really, almost every) seamstress in Blogomania I've come across has a cat.
As long as I am in the sewing-themed blog-business, I've come across mostly cat-lovers, cat-owners.
Like..

Gertie, well known with her cats Henry and... yeah. The other doesn't show up quite often.
Fuchsia, and her cat Sol.
A cat of impossible Colour. Well, name says all. Possesser of a cat!
There are MANY more. Far too many to post them here. I would post more, but there are some bloggers I'm not sure anymore, because of this picture madness one stumbles over in Blogomania.. To be honest, I simply forget who has what. Sometimes.

Still wondering:

Bridges on the Body. Never seen either dog nor cat. Mysterious!
I'm not quite sure about Lauren, from American Duchess. She does show dogs sometimes.
La Couturière Dimanche, at least has shown two Dachshounds, but are not her own.
I think the selfish seamstress is quite too selfish for a cat. Or a dog. ;)

HERE IS THE ULTIMATE PROOF:

There ARE dogs infiltrating your sewing chamber, and even looking cute at doing so.
So, fellow dog-lovers and dog-owners:
Where are you?

Tuesday Musings #7

2010-12-28T11:38:00.000+01:00

Thanks to ParaNoire and her christmas treasuries "Longing for Spring" and "Steampunk Avantgarde" I found the most pretty things. Oh, if I had the money,.......

...I would be ruined, or... plunged in dept.

How good then, that I have none to buy these:

via Mano Bello

via ImperoLondon

via Death Glam Couture

via Homestead Treasures

via another season

via Mademoiselle Mermaid

via MadMenVintage and DprintsClayful

ALSO.. again at a little nouveau... pretty pretty dresses. I would buy them all, of course.
If I had to narrow it down, these would be my favs:

Black No. 1 Style

2010-12-26T16:36:00.002+01:00

Black No. 1 Style by blackno1 featuring a lace handbag
this is my first set at polyvore, I'm still getting to know it, but until now, I like. This would be one of the styles I would like to wear every day.

Edwardian Coat Project - Muslin

2010-12-17T22:43:00.034+01:00

Well, Folks!
This is, what the famous coat is all about. It's a design for my winter project in fashion school and I picked an Edwardian Walking Dress from 1900 as reference but modernized its layout a bit.

A Walking Dress, 1900
Black loden and Edging
Fashion Collection Museum Vienna

The strict layout and the use of heavyweight wool affected the change from "Trotteur" into the term "the walking dress" at the beginning of the 20th Century. It started being imported from England in 1887 as the famous "Tailormade" and pleased itself with increasing popularity. This forerunner of our "Tailormade Costume" was meant only for walks outside in the morning, of course with a proper blouse underneath.

Das Trotteur in strenger Linienführung und aus festen Wollstoffen gearbeitet wurde Ende des 19. Jahrhunderts zur gebräuchlichen Bezeichnung des englischen Schneiderkostüms. 1887 als Tailormade aus England importiert, erfreute es sich zunehmender Beliebtheit. Dieser Vorläufer unseres Kostüms war nur für Gänge außer Haus am Vormittag gedacht, mit korrekter Hemdbluse darunter.

The Illustration is light-grey, but the Coat will be made in navy-herringbone with black felt edging. The original is made of black Loden and black Edging. It's mentioned in the catalogue "A great Entry - Fashion at the Ring Boulevard", which is an amazing book of the correspondent exhibition back in 2009. I think I'll make a post about a few books in the holidays (nope, we're not in the holiday-season here, yet)

This is the muslin which was finished on Thursday. I'm cutting out the pattern now, which is quite a mess. The next posts will explain why. See you soon!

Vintage Patterns by Vogue

2010-12-15T13:39:00.000+01:00

Yay!
This came yesterday:

Horaay for me! And for Rose! Staying up one night, we browsed through the products at the McCalls website and got tempted.

As shipping, taxes etc. is quite expensive if you order from Austria, we had to narrow it down to the patterns seen here. The patterns on the left side including the orange dress would be mine, Rose ordered the Marilyn Monroe-Dress, the black one with the straps and the violet one, which I have already in my stack.

As we have different sizes, we can't share the patterns, except for the orange one, and the Marilyn Monroe-Dress, which is a pity kind of.

And btw - sorry Rose, I couldn't resist to open the package :P

After the coat is finished, I will grab my things and start sewing one (or more) of these dresses.

The choice (so far) for the Michael Kors dress is this lightweight Cotton Oxford. It is rather slippery for Cotton and has a grip similar to Vóile.

I'd like to use this fabric, but I was unpleasantly surprised when I noticed, that I would need nearly 6m for this pattern. Six meters! I quite doubt, that I'll really need so much. But, I just have 3m of this grey Cotton, and I know that won't be enough for sure. What a pity. And I can't decide for which Side of fabric I will go in the end...

I love this pattern! It reminds me so much of Joan Holloway in Mad Men. It's not enough for the whole piece, but I think this fabric would be nice choice for a blouse. The grey Cotton from above would also be neat.

I took photos of my fabrics in stock.. maybe anyone has ideas for another combination?

Grey/Blue

Brown/Red

Black

Cheers, and thanks for looking

mae

50ies inspired Vintage Dress Project

2010-12-13T12:06:00.001+01:00

In the last post I mentioned a dress designed by David Crystal (the creator of Lacoste):

"This is a fall/winter dress in a brown and black wool herringbone. The dress has a small collar faced in black velveteen. String tie circles the base of the neck with a wrap knot in front. The bodice is dart fitted through the bust and midriff to the natural waistline seam. Short, set in sleeves have turn back cuffs in black velveteen and a two button decoration. Full, accordion pleated skirt falls from the natural waistline seam. Center back zipper closure. Black velveteen belt."

I scanned the fabric I got three weeks ago and am thinking - should I go for the brown, or should I choose the bw-tweed?

I think both would be fitting, but I'm kinda stuck with the brown color, since it was the original idea.

And I like the lining fabric I have, it's a rayon-silk blend.

What do you think? Would be happy to know your thoughts on that.

mae xxx

Monday Musings #6

2010-12-13T10:30:00.000+01:00

Again!

Instead of studying I sum up the glorious pictures I came across this weekend, or now.

I have an exam in nearly two hours... and.. I don't even want to mention the coat.

Shaaaaaaaaaaaaame oooon meeeeee (Shame on me!) Shaaaame meeee ooooon (Shame on me!)

(Thoughts singing another version of A-HA's "Take on me ._.)

Foxhunt - Baby! The American Duchess was lucky enough to reached the #1 most voted slot, and her design was produced in no-time. Luuucky Biaaaatch! (Admire her works, no offense! :)) This pretty baby is too expensive for me though. Sigh sigh.


American Duchess @ Garmz.com

This room would be a dream come true for me. A tree in the house. A tree!

Verhext!

Key-Collection. Lovely. Seem at Thought Patterns.

Look at these fleamarket finds at a little noveau.

Thanks to Rose I'm totally in the mood for dresses, lately.

Pretty!

THIS is the most perfect Vintage Dress for Winter! Three weeks ago I got myself a nice woolen tweed in brown, so I think I just have found its purpose!

In love! With the NoaNoa Christmas Collection. >> Noanoa.dk

Sam Webers Illustration for Shakespeare's "The Tempest". I CAN'T wait for the movie to come out.

Brent Schoepf - "Grandma's hot Air Balloon"

And last but not least: Astonishing, creepy & moody papercut vid. Simply *o*

Seen at Mademoiselle Chaos.

Oh dear, the mass of this post would be enough for 3 posts, actually.

Nevermind.

mae xxx

nightingale musings #5

2010-12-13T00:26:00.001+01:00

I kinda needed a change of scene, so I spontaneousely decided to try a new design for this blog. This idea was haunting me for a while now, and although it is kinda clichéd with the polkadots and all, I like it. Somehow it expresses my mood lately. We have (had, actually) a nice winter up until now here in vienna, now it looks, as if it's paused for a while.

I'm working on a super-challenging coat at fashion school and it makes me sick already. Even though I didn't really start yet. I'll try to post some pictures of the progress, since I have to finish this one quickly, because theres not much time left.

A blog I recently stumbled apon has these great gift tags for download,so delightful! Hurry, before it's too late.

And these lovely birdy ornaments simply made my day. Would make fun gift tags as well!

Luna having fun - big time!

2010-10-20T19:36:00.002+02:00

So.. long time no see.

The CopyCut Project is a bit on a hiatus, because... well, everything I say now, will sound like an excuse, and practically, it is one.

The upcoming schoolproject will occupy me for the next weeks, and I won't hesitate to give you a view inside the mystery of the art of tailoring. This design will also be the first item available at BlackNo.1

Soon there will be an accessories series, too!

Lady Rose and myself are working on our first collection.

Here is Shalott modeling one of the headpieces:


Will be available in color soon!

In the meantime I was experimenting with shoes...

I wanted to alter my old boots and spray a lace-pattern to give them a new look, but they are gone! Somehow... they are gone.

So, I just took my old pumps. Simply trial&error:

I took aerosol fixative and pasted the lace gently on the shoe.

That's how it looks with grey color... i think I should have taken a darker grey...>_<

Shiny shiny with gloss spray to secure the color. Tadaaaa!

I have these shoes since summer now, but never wanted to wear them, except once. So I decided to spray them black.

Way better, I don't like the bast. Now I think the next step will be applying some lace and maybe some ribbons.

Imagine this lace pattern with 20-eye boots! :D

Cheers!

CopyCut - Phase One: It's starting!

2010-09-28T15:57:00.002+02:00

Finally, we get going. So far we have decided the complete undergarments.

I've decided mine by adjusting and comparing with these two dresses:

I will go for drawers from 1889-93. It's a free pattern, which can be found online at the Ladies Treasury of Costume and Fashion.

They do not have the scale measures for drafting this garment, so I will have to draft to the size given and then alter to fit.

This will be the chemise which I will be doing:

I will have small alterations done, because I think I will go for a V neck.

Found at La Couturière Parisienne.

This 1883 Corset appears in Norah Waughs Corsets&Crinolines and is pretty much what I want my Corset to look like. It's not the one, I wanted to do first, but the other would have been too early for a 1888 Bustle Dress. It's a black coutil corset, edged with black lace and yellow ribbon. I haven't decided yet about the colors, I'd like to do something black, or black with antique pink, ... but I still have a huge amount of beautiful striped material in black/brown/dark brown and gold.

Wonderful (time-fitting!) Corset Covers we found over at Digital Changeling.

There are many Corset Covers, and even free patterns for them, but out of some reason, we can't find any for the needed decade (1880ies). The ones we have seen were either too early (~1860) or to late in time (1910)

So.. there's quite a lack of... corset covers for this time. I actually wonder how that can be.

We found a wonderful example of Bustle-Underskirt at Digital Changeling and will draft it ourselves.

After finishing the other undergarments mentioned we will aim for the one in the upper left corner.

Check Rose's blog, we may have the same goal, but our construction slightly differs. That's what makes it so interesting. :)

xxx, mae

Let's honor the internetz.

2010-09-28T12:54:00.003+02:00

Time to be thankful.

Without the internet i wouldn't have this blog, naturellement.

But without the internet I wouldn't have the possibility to see THESE amazing costumes, which I can't see in real because a) the V&A Museum is a little bit too far away at this moment and b) nobody wears these anymore. Damn you!

These are just amazing and will be the final goal for the CopyCut-Project!

Rose has found the one on the right and this wonderful, fitting umbrella. I think those two would be looking great on us two.

So, CopyCut is finally going to be starting. Await the next posts for further intormation!

xxx, mae

Tuesday musings #3 - inspirational

2010-09-28T09:35:00.000+02:00

Hi there,

again, so much lovely things going on! I'm amazed and so inspired to get going with so many things, that I can't manage to get ONE thing done. Argh..

Wonderful wearable artsy necklace.. .____.

Two lovely ruffled bloomers/pants

via magnoliapearl

The next beautiful images via blessed wild apple girl

Have-to-get-started-NOW... so inspired *__*

Engraved victorian-style Bracelets

2010-09-27T10:54:00.001+02:00

I stumbled across these today morning, and these pieces would be a nice addition to my victorian wardrobe-to-come.

I admire the art of engraving, be it leather or silver, in general. I can imagine it is quite a fulfilling work, too.

More information at the art of the engraver

greetings, maelis

CopyCut: Painters as a resource

2010-09-23T07:09:00.003+02:00

So,... we still haven't decided about the patterns of our sewing project. The reason why, is that there are so many great artists, we could use as our resource. Rose posted paintings by John Singer Sargent here. We have thought about Waterhouse, too. On thursday I stumbled upon paintings of James Tissot. They would be a great resource too, right, Rose? I love this marine-white dress! The last painting shows two really great dresses. I guess we have to decide after all. Maelis

roses and lavender & CopyCut

2010-09-21T22:38:00.004+02:00

Rose is a very good friend of mine and at least as passionate about costumes as me. Here she shows a wonderful collection of stunning corsetry of the 19th Century. Have a look!

roses and lavender: Corsets and Crinolines Pt. II: "Corsets, second half 19th century These are pieces of art. Corsets, about 1850-1900."

But, first of all, we have a massive project coming up. Lady Rose and my humble self will sew up a complete historical bustledress from scratch. As we try to keep as close to the original as possible, it will drive us mad for sure. But, we will try! In the next few days a better introduction with sketches will follow. We will try to keep you informed and would be happy if you take the journey with CopyCut through the whole next year.

Cheers, m.

Thursday Musings #2

2010-09-16T11:14:00.007+02:00

Reading through the massive amount of my favourite blogs today, i've stumbled upon shoes. Many shoes.

She bought these wonderful clogs which are perfect for the coming fall. And reading through I found out, what's missing in my wardrobe for this fall. The perfect shoe. So, i visited Brandos (it's in german..) and found some things I can not deprive you of. Starting with the ones, which really inspire me to get broke again:

Brako Malibu, 115 €, I think I would kill for these. They are pretty versatile as well. They just call for a late Bustle-Dress in bordeaux-black design with lace, velvet bows and black pearls. >> drool.

Hush Puppies Divinity Black, 115€, on a higher heel, perfectly black leather with organza lacing. Well combined, cries for a bustle as well.

Neat, without heel for sophisticated city-hiking. Underground England Broughe Boot, 299 €.

A nice boot, with a kind of industrial feel to it, but without being too pushy by Donna Girl, 60€. And affordable too! Vagabond Cathy, 99€. They remind me, that I wanted Timbaland quite a few times, but somehow I always wanted a darker color.

Would be a nice match in a sportive 1930-Outfit like the one on the left: (Actually, i had another in mind, but couldn't find it.)

Same goes for this one: Bronx Gang, 99 € Simply beautiful, universal shoes.

These are just neat in style. Even if I would prefer the heel to be a wee bit slimmer. Billi Bi 2253, 185 €

I've never been a great fan of Dr. Martens, but these Lotti 8 Eye just kick it off. 135 €

Now that's how I think makes singin' in the rain work! Killah Yuri 79€.

Neat. But I actually wouldn't buy them. Thrifting would be ok though. ;) Marc O'Polo 07MW8741. 169€.

A Cream Mantelet with a fantail skirt from 1877 would be quite fitting, I guess.

Now moving on to the category "don't know if want": I can imagine a Bustle-Dress, but somehow the three seams seem to casual to me.

Fly London Valve, 135 €.

Hm. Pretty undecided. Could work well with Shiro-, Kuro- or in general with Gothic-Lolita. (Shiro= all white, Kuro= all black) Dr. Martens 1B99 Mods, 119 €.

Well, if you combine these shoes to a Kuro style, I think it's not Kuro-Lolita anymore, eh.

Something is quite cool about these, but something definitely is not. I think what's bothering me, is the way it is eyed. They're too wide for my taste. And with a black organza lacing this would be a whole another story. Lola Ramona Molly, 199 €.

Well, when I saw these the first time this morning I was like UGH, who would want to wear THOSE... but now I'm not so sure. I think a very ruffled Bustle-Dress would make a nice combo, but I couldn't imagine those with modern or vintage style in another way. Can you? Chie Mihara Atenea, 359 €.

Well... we won't have to argue about these shoes. They're awefully ugly. Have always been. I've seen these Converse-Heels about 8 years ago (for the first time..), and ever since, there were people who penetrate your eyesight with this... accident. It's always the same. If you think a certain trend is over, it comes back and punches you in the face. And it hurts. Diesel, shame on you! 139 €.

Were climbing down the ladder to painfullness. If you're not a creepy german rocker-hag, with a voice like you would try to breed another species living with lung-cancer and ugly-frizzy blond-greyish hair with no treatment whatsoever, you're not allowed to wear these. Bronx, 149 €. (I'm trying to provide as few information as possible)

Actually, I've been thinking quite some minutes now, what to write here. This is painful. These-shoes-are-ugly. They really are. I think it's possible that this shoe is quite comfy, but.. what is the desire to wear these? I mean, if you take the design-aspect. There are people who wear this. Actually I cant believe it. Maybe it works with a certain boho style? But.. well, I don't know. I'd like to know, how you can make this work. Camel Active Soho, 99€.

Oh, and a fabulous dress, seen at the Sartorialist.

That's it for now. I think i have a weird taste.... don't I?

Monday Musings #1

2010-03-01T09:30:00.006+01:00

Woha, I'm in typewriting mood!

This Girl reminded me of my my old wish to have a typewriter! I've got a (maybe 70ies) record player last year on ebay, for 15 € including mail order which is awesome. I'll post some pictures someday.. now I need a charming typewriter to start typing letters instead of writing! Writing is cool too of course.
Something which has been on my mind lately, while reading many sewing-blogs and observing - there is no correct fit. It appears nearly on every blog, even if the frequency is different. I will gather information and post it someday, because it's such a pity to see great ideas in bad "shape". The major issues are that these clothes are mostly too tight and sometimes not even pressed at all. This post is not meant to be offensive, but I think this topic needs far more attention.
This FIDM Museum Blog will replace my daily newspaper for sure! I think i will realize this military influenced jacket after having finished my over9000 want-to-do projects. -.-' Oh this list gets longer and longer...
Omg, the Gala Nocturna had some whopping costumes this year, check out the gallery, you will be stunned!

Corsetomania I - French Corset

2010-02-26T17:02:00.015+01:00

So, after all, here's the first one.

That piece was drafted by me, the pattern is historical but has been renewed and optimized in it's correct fit quite a few times. Nevertheless, it has managed to stay quite "original" and is common for theaters or movies to use it for costumes. I drafted it with my actual measurements and reduced the waistline about 6 cm and there was no need to define more. When I wear it, theres a gap in the back with about 4-5 cm, because I actually don't want the fastening to touch neatly. I plan to lose weight, so maybe later the gap will get smaller. The main reason is to be flexible with weight without ruining the form or not being able to wear it anymore.

Materials used:
Shantung Silk (1x) and Interfacing,
Muslin (2x - fine quality, 2x rough quality),
Canvas(1x),
Erbelin (1x),
Wadding (1x)
equals 8 layers to sew though!

Drafted pattern already cut out and with marked positions where to put in the spring steel bones. Thats how the criss-cross looks like... on every piece! (I had to do 14 ...) I used 6 layers for this "lining". Muslin fine 2x, Muslin rough 2x, Canvas 1x, Erbelin 1x (is a thick and stiff cotton quality, treated or untreated) Sewing in the ribbons for spring steel bones. On this pattern (which is the third when you look from the front) I used two, to push the breasts to the front. Tucking: So here you are. Ribbons are ready, now you have to layer the fabrics. Criss-Cross thing, Wadding and Silk. It has to be tucked this way, just like you would simulate the form of the waist. If done well, later on you will see no crincles or gatherings when the corset is laced. Here you can see the Inside. A spring steel bone is hiding behind that white ribbon, ending 1cm above the waist. If it would end lower, your waist would have a sharp angle or no characteristics at all. In addition, it would be very uncomfortable.

The front straight busk. (35cm)

That part was pretty difficult to put in, because of the massive thickness of these 8 layers.

Many many things hand-sewn.

Lacing from the Inside.

And Outside. For an optimal straight line i put a spriral bone in the back, aka in front of the eyelets to give stability.

Upper lace.

Inside this ribbons made out of the same material are spiral bones cut to the ideal lenght of 1 cm less than measured lenght.

Front View

Back View

This crinkles are due to the fact there is no tension on this dummy. It's quite loose fitting because it has no body that can give in to the pressure. ;) By wearing and lacing tight this crinkles will simply fade away if your tucking (see 4th from above) was correct. The uneven distribution you might come across by seeing this corset on a dummy is, because the dummy's proportions are perfect, and mine are not. ;) Like I mentioned, it's fitted for my actual measurements. This thing had cost me 104 hours to do it. This criss-cross sewing already requires about 12h and the tucking even 25h. I need to find a material, that gives the same strength but needs other effort. It's really thick like armour, the reason for decrease my waist around 11 cm. Information and Questions welcome. :)

edwardian wedding and vintage at day-time

2009-11-20T14:36:00.000+01:00

oh - my - god!
I think this is the most beautiful way to be dressed for a wedding!
and in such scenery! if i'd ever get married, it would be like this

check out this wonderful wedding and this astonishing gown

and i love, love her vintage collection!

aaaawwww, this is so gorgeous!

selbstversuch - what i will do definitely sometime.

2009-11-20T09:56:00.000+01:00

this wonderful lady once ripped one of her shoes apart, and voilá! Tried to make her own shoes for the first time.

i will definitely try this!

i found some astonishing projects as well:

one year, one dress and the makeshift project

abgefahren!

cheers, mal

what i will do first!

2009-11-18T11:37:00.000+01:00

hi and welcome!

after hours and weeks of cruising through the web, i found tons of wonderful blogs concerning vintage-style, patterns, do-it-yourself, and lots of fashion-addicts.

i think it would be appropriate to post these links because they're so inspiring!

but i think they will appear one after another anyway, thats why i won't post them as a whole list.

i'm still a bit undecided about this blog. for this reason i will answer a few questions, in case you are not sure about this blog either.

1) why in english when you obviously speak and live in a german-speaking country?

i want to reach a wider range of people, but to be honest, i'm pretty unsure about this point. i want people to be part of this process, on the other hand i can explain the steps more easily in my own language. my goal is to take the cultural advantage of the place i'm living in and use it for the apparel. that's why i'll make this blog bi-lingual, i guess.

2) why this title?

'La Guêpière' is french for bodice or corset. it emerged from the word 'guêpe' which means wasp. the guêpière was necessary and typical for the 'new look' by dior in the late 40ies and the 50ies fashion in general. this marks my interest and goal for this project at its best: to produce authentic historical clothing for the size of today. i myself have an american 16/18 which is a german 42/44 when i would go shopping, but it's a 46 in the system of units i'm using.(sounds a bit weird, i know)
it's not necessarily difficult for me to get clothes in general, but i have high prospects to the fit and am not pleased by the products most labels offer.

thats why i set my goal to have my wardrobe full of self-made garment with vintage touch or in authentic vintage style.

furthermore im fascinated by corsetry and lingerie and have never-ever owned a perfect fitting bra or have had one, which was well designed in my taste.

i will start a collection of high quality materials with (in)dependent style and viennesque charme called black no. 1

'la guêpière' is mostly there for following this process and an outlet for my inspiration and outcomes as well as 'try-outs' of new techniques.

that's why my first project will be......... a bodice!

3) anything to add?

well yes, it's by choice, that i don't use upper and lower case.

jokes aside. if you have a request for a style or a technique explained or what comes to your mind, feel free to contact me. this blog is for seamstresses and tailors who always seek a challenge! :P as i said, this will give insight in my work, but it won't include the basics of drafting or sewing. (if it's not relevant to the topic!)

4) that's lot'sa text, you know?

it's my first post, what do you want? ;) i'll get startin' soon anyway!